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How to Read a Luxury Watch Auction Listing (Without Getting Burned)

Not All Listings Tell the Full Story—Unless You Know What to Look For

Watch auction catalogs are packed with details—but unless you understand how to interpret them, you could overpay or bid blind.
Adam Levinsohn, lead auction analyst at Bond Street Auctions, explains how to decode listings and spot red flags before you raise your paddle (or click “Bid”).
1. Start with the Condition Report
Every serious auction house will assign a condition grade or summary. At Bond Street, this includes:
• Letter Grade (A = excellent, D = poor)
• Notes on polish, bracelet stretch, dial originality
• Disclosure of chips, cracks, or water ingress
“Don’t just read ‘excellent’—read the details behind it,” says Levinsohn.
2. Decode the Reference Numbers
Pay attention to:
Reference Number – Identifies the exact model
Serial Number – Useful for production year and database checks
Movement Caliber – Verifies internal mechanics
Cross-reference these with brand archives if needed.
3. Examine the Dial Notes Closely
Is it:
Original
Re-lumed
Refinished
Service dial
This can impact value by tens of thousands depending on the reference.
4. Read the Paperwork Status Carefully
Box and papers? Great.
Extract from archives? Even better.
“Sold as-is, no box”? Consider pricing risk.
Provenance is king—especially with vintage Rolex and Patek.
5. Look for Movement Testing Data
Bond Street provides:
Timegrapher results
Power reserve tests
Photographs of the open movement
Levinsohn warns: “If they won’t show you the engine, don’t buy the car.”
6. Understand Buyer’s Premium
Factor this into your max bid:
• Bond Street’s premium: 15–20%
• Some houses charge as high as 25–28%
• Includes authentication, shipping, and insurance handling

FAQs

What if a listing doesn’t include condition details?
Request a report or photos. No response = no bid.
Are paperless watches always a bad buy?
No, but they should be priced accordingly—and verified through alternate methods.
Is a re-lumed dial a dealbreaker?
Usually, yes—unless you’re buying to wear, not invest.

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