The Hidden Epidemic in Watch Collecting
In 2024, counterfeiters have reached terrifying levels of precision. Nowhere is this more evident than in Audemars Piguet fakes—especially Royal Oak Offshores and “Jumbo” references. These watches aren’t just knockoffs—they’re surgical clones.
Auctioneer and fraud-prevention advocate Adam Levinsohn exposes shocking real-world black market cases uncovered by Bond Street Auctions, and explains how to identify, avoid, and protect yourself from high-end fakes.
Real Case: $80K AP “Jumbo” Turns Out to Be Fake
In April 2024, a collector submitted a Royal Oak ref. 15202ST for resale at Bond Street. Upon inspection, Bond Street’s authentication team discovered:
• Aftermarket movement, modified to mimic AP caliber 2121
• Laser-engraved caseback serial, duplicated from a stolen watch
• XRF test revealed steel plating over a base metal case
The watch had been purchased on the grey market for $80,000—and had no resale value.
“It was visually perfect. But internally, it was junk,” Levinsohn explains.
Top 5 Warning Signs of a Fake AP
Red Flag What to Look For
Serial Number Inconsistencies Doesn’t match warranty card or AP archives
Movement Without Seal No Geneva Seal or obvious finishing flaws
Poor Date Alignment Misaligned in the window, wrong font
Bracelet Links Too Soft Lack of taper or incorrect flex feel
Lightweight Feel Below the expected weight for model/case material
Why AP Fakes Are So Dangerous
Unlike fake Rolexes, which are often easy to spot by pros, counterfeit Audemars Piguet watches are now made in micro-production labs with:
• Genuine ETA base movements
• High-grade sapphire crystals
• Perfected laser etching and false hallmarks
“These aren’t $200 fakes from overseas. These are $5,000 builds designed to pass for $100K,” says Levinsohn.
Auction House Authentication: What Bond Street Does Differently
Every AP submitted to Bond Street goes through a 5-step authentication protocol:
1. XRF metal testing to verify case composition
2. Full movement teardown by AP-trained watchmakers
3. Database serial search through Watch Register + brand records
4. Photographic cross-checking of known model traits
5. Weight and dimension verification against AP factory specs
How to Protect Yourself When Buying an AP
If you’re not buying through an AD or vetted auction, follow Levinsohn’s grey market checklist:
• Demand internal photos of movement bridges
• Ask for a weight-in-hand photo on a digital scale
• Never buy without a referenceable seller history
• Confirm if AP warranty is valid and can be verified with the brand
“If they hesitate to open the caseback or won’t video the timegrapher reading—it’s a no,” Levinsohn warns.
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Why Auctions Are Becoming the Preferred Channel for AP Collectors
With fakes getting harder to detect, buyers are migrating to auction environments that guarantee transparency.
Platform Authentication? Buyer Risk Return Value
Grey Market Often none High Volatile
Private Dealer Varies Medium Depends on rep
Auction House Full process Low Verified comps
FAQs
Are there fake APs even experts can’t detect?
Yes—without opening the case or XRF testing, some fakes are extremely convincing. That’s why teardown analysis is critical.
Can you get a refund if you buy a fake AP on the grey market?
Rarely. Most grey sellers don’t guarantee authenticity in writing.
Do auctions offer guarantees?
Bond Street offers condition reports and third-party verified appraisals on all APs sold.
Buy With Certainty, Not Suspicion
Skip the scams. Explore certified Audemars Piguet watches from Bond Street Auctions—backed by elite authentication.
👉 Subscribe now at www.BondStreetAuctions.com
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