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The Rise of Independent Watchmakers: Hype or Long-Term Play?

Indie Is In—But Is It Sustainable?

In 2024, indie watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Kari Voutilainen, and H. Moser & Cie are capturing headlines—and hammer prices. But are they a hype wave, or the future of watch investing?
With Bond Street Auctions data and insight from watch analyst Adam Levinsohn, we break down the performance and risks of independent brands in today’s auction landscape.

Top Indie Brands at Auction (2024)

Brand Model Avg. Auction Price YoY Change
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu $148,000 +19%
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Chrono $38,500 +23%
Voutilainen Vingt-8 $124,000 +17%
Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire $81,000 +15%
“Indie watchmaking is no longer fringe—it’s prime auction material,” says Levinsohn.
Why Indie Brands Are So Hot
1. Ultra-Low Production – Some models under 50 pieces/year
2. High Collectability – Cult followings among seasoned buyers
3. Experimental Design – From movement architecture to case shapes
4. Auction Visibility – Record sales fueling interest worldwide
What to Watch Out For
Low liquidity – Less known = harder resale
Volatile pricing – Big swings in short time spans
Hype-dependent demand – A quiet year can hurt values
“Indies are the art stocks of watches. High upside, high volatility,” Levinsohn notes.
Who’s Buying Indie in 2024?
Younger collectors seeking uniqueness
Former Rolex/Patek investors diversifying
Collectors looking for passion, not just profit

Best Auction Houses for Indie Watches

Top-tier houses like Bond Street lead the way in properly listing, authenticating, and marketing indie watches with:
• In-house horologists trained on small-production calibers
• Movement videos and close-up photography
• Global bidder bases familiar with niche brands

FAQs

Are indie watches good investments?
Yes—with select brands. Journe, Voutilainen, and Moser have proven resale power. Others are still speculative.
Why are indie watches so expensive?
Because they’re handmade in tiny batches, often by one person or a small team.
Can I find indie watches at retail?
Rarely. Most are sold out or waitlisted—auctions are now a primary acquisition channel.

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